This earthy pungent ingredient is originally British. Go
figure. During a time when tomatoes were considered poisonous and the
alternative fungi being so prevalent, we can imagine the thought process behind
the operation. From my studies, we don’t know exactly when the first batch of
mushroom ketchup was created. We only find the term mentioned as an ingredient
in the earliest cook books of Britain. The first record of ‘mushroom’ ketchup
in colonial America arrives in 1770 within the manuscript of Harriott Pinckney.
For you tomato ketchup loving crowd, my condolences, you’ll have to wait until
the next century.
The ingredients in mushroom ketchup somewhat evolved with
the generations. Traditionally it required, of course, the mushrooms of brown
variety (collected in the wild), mace (the hull of the nutmeg), nutmeg, and
your choice of kitchen pepper (this would include a variety of seasonings you
used often and was simply mixed together). The idea is to cater your ketchup to
your individual taste. Lemon peel, cloves, and black pepper are also found in
other recipes. Harriott Pinckney suggests adding two egg whites to your mixture
in order to ‘clarify’ your final product. Honestly, in my opinion, save your
egg whites for pudding. If done properly, the concoction has its own refined
presentation.
Without further delay, let’s get on to the main event!
Mushroom Ketchup
Ingredients:
2.5 pounds of mushrooms
(Button and shitake mushrooms are perfectly acceptable.
Unless you have years of knowledge on wild mushrooms, do NOT go gathering
random ones on your own. You may end up with a bottle of Death Cap sauce
instead.)
3 tablespoons of course sea salt
½ tablespoon of nutmeg
½ tablespoon of cloves
½ tablespoon of black pepper
½ tablespoon of grated ginger
(If you love your food on the spicy side, feel free to swap
the ginger for horseradish paste.)
Slivered peel of 1 lemon, leave the white pith behind
Half of a large
onion, just peeled
3 bay leaves
¼ cup of cider vinegar
Hardware :
Non reactive cooking pot.
Muslin cloth, unbleached, 2ft by 2ft is fine for size. Or a
very fine mesh strainer.
Large glass bowl
After cleaning your mushrooms
so there is no dirt to be
found, chop them up in a course dice, and toss them in a large non-reactive
pot. I suggest glass, ceramic, or fine stainless steel. Add the salt and stir
for at least two minutes. You want salt to reach each bit of mushroom to insure
they all seep their lovely essence. Then add your bay leaves and stir likewise.
Cover your pot with a lid and let sit overnight or up to 36 hours.
Don’t give me that look. Perfection takes time.
The next day or after their long soak, your mixture should
look like bits of mushroom in amazing ebony liquor. The smell will be extremely
earthy and pleasant. If you’re a gardener or just like to work soil, you will
feel right at home. Next you will want to move your ketchup base to another
cooking pot if the one you’re using isn’t heat safe.
Slowly bring it to a simmer and add your lemon peel, nutmeg,
cloves, cider vinegar, ginger, black pepper, and onion half. Remember you can
add other seasonings to your liking. These are just the ones I prefer.
Let this simmer, with the lid on, for half an hour or until
the half union is cooked. Not only is the onion a good indicator that
everything is cooked thoroughly, it also adds lovely flavor.
Turn off the heat and let this cool down. The squeezing is
much easier.
In your glass bowl, line with the muslin cloth, and spoon
your mushroom ketchup brew in the bowl. The bigger your bowl and piece of cloth
is, the easier this will be. The muslin cloth has a very fine weave which
allows for the liquid to separate better. You will end up with clearer ketchup
this way. If you don’t mind cloudy ketchup feel free to use a fine mesh
strainer.
Do opt for the muslin cloth, it’s much more fun and is
easily washed with your laundry load for reuse.
Squeeze as much of the liquid out as you can.
Set the cloth full of mushroom mush aside. DON’T discard
them. We have more enticing uses for them.
Simply bottle your ketchup in a glass container or jar.
Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. If you want to preserve it longer,
you can bring the liquid to a boil and seal it in mason jars. Just make sure
the jars seal completely.
Use your mushroom ketchup as a steak sauce, marinade, substitute for Worcestershire sause, addition to your gravy, or anything you would enjoy it on.
As for your mushroom leftover bits
Discard the onion half. Place the bits and all the seasoning
leftovers on a baking sheet and spread them out evenly. Bake in the oven at 200
degrees F for an hour or until they are as dry as beef jerky. Grind them in a
food processor until you have a fine powder. This makes an amazing food
additive for dry rubs, soups, stews, or whatever you’d like. For storage, keep
completely dry in an air tight container.
This mushroom ketchup is completely vegan, gluten free, healthier
than regular ketchup, and perfect for that 18th century soul who loves
historical food. I find myself making batches every three weeks. It never lasts
long in my house.
Dig into a beef pasty with mushroom ketchup gravy, enjoy some fire cakes with quince paste, and step back in time to the 18th century.
And as always...eat your history!
