While
deciding which recipe to feature for this week, I was having a harder time
keeping my two rambunctious cats in line. I noticed they were fighting over
which would obtain the prestigious honor of sitting in the empty box that I brought
my oxtails home in. Fifteen pounds of oxtails takes a pretty decent sized box,
even my fat cat can comfortably fit. Why would someone buy fifteen pounds of
oxtails at a time, you wonder? Because it is worth it. Let me explain…
My
first introduction into oxtails actually happened in my adult life. Oxtails
were not something my family ate, at all. Even though we used many of our farms
resources, we did not maintain a meat animal to provide food.
It was
during my time in the big city that a dear friend of mine offered a sample of
her lunch, which happened to be oxtails. I remember the spicy aroma, the pitch-black
rice around this gelatinous piece of meat, and my old world soul seeming ready
to dig in. I was hooked on them immediately as I tasted the meat. For weeks, I studied
to acquire the best knowledge on how to cook this long lost food.
My
first sample had been cooked Haitian style. The oxtails were fried and braised
in an extremely hot pepper marinade very slowly until perfectly tender. The
rice was cooked with Djon Djon (a mushroom powder originally from Haiti) which
gave it that spectacular black color.
Since
then I have been trying new methods of cooking oxtails, even paring them with
other dishes.
I’ve
always said you can connect with people and other cultures through food. A
little middle ground will most certainly create foundations for friendships and
enriching experiences. As a treat, my friend would often bring me leftovers
from dinner when her family made oxtails. They were so divine; I would even
face the peril of skin melting heat from the peppers to enjoy them. Once, they
had made a less spicy version just for me, but alas, the meal containers
unfortunately found themselves with the wrong recipient. With tears streaming
down my fire red face, I savored every mouthful. Such memories will always last
a lifetime, much like the scars.
The
term ‘ox’ in oxtail derives from the young castrated male beef cow. Today we
would call the ‘ox’ a ‘steer’. After hundreds of years, apparently the term
oxtail just sounded better than steer tail. No text or record indicated the
first time oxtail was served, or how it was prepared for that matter. Recipes
from China, Korea, France, Great Brittan, and the territory of Louisiana all
indicate the vast common interest in the delicacy. Each region provides their
own versions and ‘correct’ methods of preparing and eating oxtails. Today,
however, I will be providing a more Colonial American spin on the fly duster of
meats.
18th
Century American Oxtails
Ingredients
3
pounds of oxtail meat
1/2
pint of Mushroom Ketchup (or a 1:1 ratio of beef broth and worchestershire
sauce. See our upcoming blog regarding Mushroom Ketchup for more details)
1
tomatillo or regular green tomato, finely diced
1 tsp
of garlic minced
2-3
green onion/scallions diced
Salt
and pepper to taste
Two sprigs of rosemary, thyme, and tarragon
When
you buy your oxtails, chances are you will buy pre-cut smaller pieces already vacuum
packed from the supermarket. I implore you; find a local butcher or meat
market. The quality, in both size and flavor, will be substantially better. In this
fashion, your oxtail will come fully intact. Just ask your butcher to cut them
at the joint for you. Trust me, you will thank me later. The thicker the slice
the better they will hold together after a long slow braising. This is not a
stew! Do not treat is as such! You will need some elbow grease for this dish
and it’s well worth it.
Place
your oxtails in a bowl that allows them to have their own space and not be
crammed together. Salt and pepper them to season. Let them sit while you
prepare the marinade.
In a
bowl, mix the mushroom ketchup, tomatillo, garlic, and green onion together.
Stir to combine. Pour over the oxtails and let them sit in the refrigerator for
an hour.
After
they have had time to marinade, take them out of the refrigerator and let them
sit and come to room temperature.
On the
stove, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in a large
Dutch oven until melted. Set the temperature to medium heat. Sear both sides of
the oxtail until golden brown. Once all of the pieces are seared, pour the
marinade over them and add the herb sprigs. Cover with the dutch oven lid and place in the oven. Set
your oven to 250 degrees F. If you have opted for the larger cuts, per my
instructions, you will benefit greater for leaving them to cook at least 2
hours. The smaller portions only need about 1 hour.
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